East of the Sierra Nevada

• Elevations between 1127 m (3,697 ft) in Lone Pine, 1262 m (4,140 ft) in Bishop and 2480 m (8,136 ft) at Conway Summit

Do mountains truly possess the same beauty from every angle? Whether it’s the Alps or the Rocky Mountains, the stunning view of the Sierra Nevada lies on its eastern side. Subjective nonsense? Here are a few objective reasons for this. The Sierra rightly divides two quite different landscapes from each other, with the fertile San Joaquin Valley on its west side and the desert-like Great Basin plateau to the east. This is accompanied by different cultural forms and elevations. The San Joaquin, or Great Central Valley, is extremely fertile thanks to good irrigation and an altitude of only 90 m (295 ft). However, the not always ecologically sound field cultivation and the nearby industrial centers of the coastal region lead to increasingly poor air quality, often obscuring the mountains from the transitional area of the Foothills. The Great Basin area on the east side, on the other hand, is an arid, rocky desert at least 1000 m (3,280 ft) high and very sparsely populated. The air is pure and clear because, aside from the rain clouds, the haze does not extend above the heights. From afar, the distinctive gray range of the sierra rises above the Owens Valley as one approaches from the east. Well, beauty may be relative, but the better photos are taken east of the Sierra Nevada!

Upon entering this area from Death Valley, one encounters Rt-395, the crucial traffic link on the east side of the Sierra, rightfully designated as a Scenic Byway. This is where the choice of the next route is made, as there is no road that crosses the high mountain range between Sherman Pass in the south and Tioga Pass in the north. Consequently, you would have to drive a route twice to connect Sequoia and Kings Canyon NPs, Owens Valley and Yosemite NP in a loop on your way to the Pacific. Alternatively, you could skip the first-mentioned double park, turn immediately north, and admire the redwoods in Yosemite. On this last option, you’ll pass the following two ghost towns.

Cerro Gordo is below Cerro Gordo Peak on a dusty road that branches off Rt-136 at the level of the town of Keeler. The dirt road climbs 500 m (1,670 ft) over seven miles, guaranteeing spectacular views of the sandy bed of Owens Lake and the Sierra Nevada massif towering behind. At the town’s boom time in the 1873s, the lake still had a water level of 15 m (50 ft), and two steamboats ran between its shores. Cerro Gordo’s remains are now privately owned and lovingly maintained and restored, so that these once most productive silver mines in California – ore was mined here until 1959 – are now also among the best preserved. Reward is located 9,5 km (6 mi) east of Manzanar and Rt-395 in Owens Valley. Between 1860 and 1936, the Brown Monster Mine produced a record amount of gold here for the Owens Valley, and a considerable number of the facilities and buildings have been preserved – so the short side trip is well worth it!

Next The Bristlecone Pines in the White Mountains

Main Photo Tips USA – California

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