Photo Tips USA – East of the Sierra Nevada – The Bristlecone Pines in the White Mountains

„My images of single trees came out fine because bristlecones are such isolated trees, but my attempts to capture the feel of the bristlecone forest were defeated by the very lack of consistent pattern that makes a visit to the bristlecones such a mystical experience.“
Galen Rowell, Mountain Light

• 3048 m (10,000 ft) at Schulman Grove, 3414 m (11,200 ft) at Patriarch Grove

How, Where, What

They are old, and you can see it at first sight. Only a few parts of their trunks have skin, and the rocky ground largely exposes their roots. Despite their soaring altitude, their radiating dignity and serenity leave you in awe. Their branches and trunks, which have grown into almost impossible shapes, and the wood, which has been more than polished smooth by the elements, contribute in no small way to this.

The species of Bristlecone Pines (pinus longaeva) represents the oldest living creatures on earth; Methuselah, its toughest specimen, has now reached more than 4,700 years. This is all the more astonishing when one considers the hostile environment in which they thrive, for the White Mountains are among the most inhospitable places on earth. The Sierra Nevada intercepts almost the entire Pacific rainfall, leaving only strong but record-breaking dry winds for the areas in its shadow. At an elevation of more than 4000 m (13,120 ft), the Sierra Nevada receives abundant snowfall, accounting for more than half of the average 30 cm (11.8 in) of precipitation annually. However, it is precisely these conditions that the Bristlecones seem to favor here, as well as in the six other states where they are found in the western United States. Despite their aesthetic appeal, the Bristlecones also hold scientific significance. Dr. Schulman, who named one of the stands in the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, used their growth rings to demonstrate that the atmosphere’s carbon production, specifically C-14, had not been constant. This led to the correction of much of the archaeological data determined by the radiocarbon method. Among the survival strategies of these long-lived fellows, the most important is their tough wood, which reliably prevents the invasion of bacteria, fungi, and insects. The dry air of their preferred altitudes also hinders the rotting process, but above all, the ability to let parts of the trunk die in bad years in order to save the rest is the key to their great age.

Directions

For 160 km (99 mi), the Owens Valley stretches almost dead straight between the Mono Basin in the north and the dry bed of Owens Lake in the south. Thanks to the Owens River rising in the Mammoth Lakes area, this was originally a fertile area, but the immense thirst of the sprawling metropolis of Los Angeles is sucking up much of the water, often leaving only low bushes of tumbleweeds to thrive along the highway. Drive 72 km (45 mi) north from Lone Pine through this remarkable valley until you turn east onto Rt-168 in Big Pine. From here to the Schulman Grove Visitor Center, it is another 45 minutes or 32 km (20 mi). This low-lying part of Ancient Bristlecone Forest is accessible between mid-May and late October. You can reach the even higher Patriarch Grove via a 21 km (13 mi) dust road. Camping is available at the Grandview Campground at 2621 m (8,600 ft) elevation. It offers 36 free sites (first come-first served) and is also open between May and October. The nearest motels are in Big Pine in the valley.

Geographic orientation and the most photogenic times of day

Bristlecones are mostly free-standing and like to stand dramatically close to the edge of a cliff. The cool blue light of sunrise best sets off their bizarre shapes in the barren, surreal setting. Sunset, on the other hand, provides somewhat warmer colors that make the wood appear less pale and thus altogether friendlier.

Photographic features

The polarizing filter makes the different hues of the wood stand out more and darkens the sky a bit, making the trees stand out better. A strong red filter helps to create a dramatic dark sky when using B&W material.

Motifs in the Bristlecone Pine Forest

Along White Mountain Road to Schulman Grove, after a few small parking strips, you pass Sierra Viewpoint. From high altitude, you’ll have the best view across Owens Valley to the Sierra Nevada peaks, bathing in the fine light of sunrise.

Two good footpaths lead through the Bristlecone cluster of Schulman Grove, just beyond the visitor center. The western portion of the 1,6 km (1 mi) Discovery Trail is especially recommended for late afternoon. Early morning is the best time to appreciate the motifs on the somewhat more challenging and longer Methuselah Trail, which spans 6.5 km (4 mi). On it, you will reach the Methuselah Grove, where you can guess the oldest specimen of the species. To protect against vandalism, the methuselah of all trees is unmarked. Along both trails, you can include the wildflowers that bloom in August. The splashes of color contrast nicely with the pale trunks.

Patriarch Grove resembles a wide, open bowl, its barrenness perfectly reflected by the Great Basin in the background. The two lower stands are remarkable in their own right, but up here you’ll find not only the tallest, at 11 m (36 ft), but also by far the most beautiful specimens. Patriarch Tree, with its 1,500 years, corresponds exactly to the average age of its conspecifics. By the way: dead wood is not just lying around here. – Of course, we don’t collect it because it is part of the ecological cycle!

Also in this area, the ghost town of Laws is a relic from the early days of the West. The remains of the old railroad town, which include various municipal buildings and especially the depot of the narrow-gauge railroad, are located just a stone’s throw north of Bishop on Rt-6.

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