Photo Tips USA – Zion NP – Great West Canyon / The Subway

The Subway is the name given to a short section of Great West Canyon carved into the dark rock of the Kolob Plateau by the left branch of North Creek. This name is fitting, as the canyon bears a resemblance to a tunnel in two distinct ways. First, there is the semicircular shape, reminiscent of a bobsled run, and second, there is an oppressive semi-darkness inside. Neither the red rocks, nor the blue shimmering pools, nor the jade-green water surfaces, in which the river makes itself felt, are able to alleviate this feeling. However, unlike a real tunnel, its top remains partially open, leading us to confidently refer to it as a slot canyon. When walking here, be careful, because the constantly flowing water has mightily abraded the dark red rock, turning it into a slippery track. So move carefully. Many a person has fallen here and taken home bruises or even had to write off pieces of equipment!

You can reach this extremely photogenic part of the canyon by crossing the Great West Canyon either from north to south, i.e., from top to bottom (From-the-Top-down-Trail), or from south to north, i.e., from bottom to top (From-the-Bottom-and-Back-Trail). Both trailheads are accessed from Kolob Reservoir Road, which branches north from Route 9 in Virgin. Access to the Subway is limited to 50 people per day, and therefore a National Park Service permit is required. An online lottery system issues thirty of these permits, with the remaining 20 spots available at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center or the Kolob Canyon Visitor Center backcountry desk the day before each scheduled hike. The fee is based on the size of the group. Except on weekends, during U.S. summer vacations, and during foliage color in late October, it is usually not a problem to get one of these walk-in permits. You can find all current regulations on the official park website.

Since the From-the-Top-down-Trail is only suitable for experienced canyon climbers with the necessary equipment (who often struggle to carry photo equipment), I have not included it in this discussion.

The trail of choice for photographers is the From-the-Bottom-and-Back trail. It starts at the well-signed Left Fork Trailhead, a good 8 miles north of Virgin on Kolob Terrace Road, and measures 15 km / 9.3 mi round trip. Since it takes at least 2.5 hours to get to the Subway, calculate a good 7 hours total, photo stops included. Pack plenty of water in your backpack, especially in the summer because the hike is very strenuous. The Left Fork Trail first leads as a well-recognizable path through the forested landscape for a good 1 km / 0.6 mi, before it reaches a slope with a view into the Great West Canyon. The descent can be quite steep at times, with stone pyramids marking the trail at irregular intervals. At the bottom, the trail continues northeast directly along the river or, if obstacles block the way, through the river. I highly recommend wearing at least water-repellent shoes for this hike and the subway experience. After covering a distance of approximately 6.5 km / 4 mi, you will encounter the first significant cascades that North Creek has carved into the red rock. They get the best light in the morning. The destination is near when you reach The Crack, a crevice in the red sandstone through which the water flows photogenically fast. At a slightly higher water level, this motif is easy to miss. Here, the tripod we dragged along pays off for the first time, as we can transform the water jet in the picture into something that no longer reminds us of this medium, thanks to a long exposure time achievable with a gray filter. The Crack is also best lit in the morning. After another bend in the river, the entrance to the Subway is reached, which is divided into two main areas over 150 m / 490 ft: the lower one, which has the photogenic small water holes (pools) known from many pictures, and the upper one, which lies behind a rocky slope and can be reached only by climbing a rope. However, it is only worth doing it if you continue to the so-called Log Chamber. A log has been lying photogenically across the narrow canyon for a long time, and Michael Fatali has memorialized this place in a wonderful photo („North Pole“). However, if a climbing group has left a rope hanging, proceed with caution and only use it after verifying its strength! Due to the constant soaking, the material ages quickly and is accordingly prone to tearing.

The Subway is best hiked in September, because then a) it is not as hot as in summer, but the water to be forded is not yet winter cold, and b) the water level does not rise too high, as in spring, due to melt water. Those who are not afraid of colder water can come at the end of October and enjoy the spectacular colors of the leaves. Best lighting is when the sun is not directly in the narrow canyon from above. Then, the stark contrasts completely destroy the unique atmosphere of the light. So during the summer months, plan your hike to reach the Subway in either the morning or afternoon to photograph it in the warm, soft, reflected light. In spring and fall, however, when the sun describes a lower path, the time of day is less critical. Two things transform the small waterholes into the jade-green pools familiar from many photos: exposure times of 10 sec and longer, and the right low water level. If there is too much water after heavy rainfall, sand will swirl up and turn the pools milky brown. Then no good pictures can be taken. In most places, the darkness alone leads to long exposures. If you stop down to the smallest aperture to get maximum depth of field and work with low ISOs, you have to expect exposure times of up to 30 sec. Other places are brighter and require a gray filter with at least extension factor 4 (equivalent to 2 f/stops). That said, a tripod is an absolute requirement. To change the characteristics of the cold bluish light, an 81 A warm tone filter or a modified digital white balance is the first choice. Given the importance of water level and the difficulty in obtaining information about it, it is advisable to consult the weather reports for the area surrounding Zion National Park, with particular attention to thunderstorms.

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