Motifs in San Francisco – Second Round: Presidio, Palace of Fine Arts, Pacific Heights, Alamo Square

The Presidio of San Francisco
covers an area of about 600 ha (1400 ac) around the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge. Already, the Spanish considered this piece of land at the strait strategically important and founded the first bastion around 1776. The Mexicans and Americans succeeded them, maintaining a significant supply base here until 1994. Today, the more than 500 historic buildings and fortifications are under the protection of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Rt-101 runs east to west through the area, and Lincoln Boulevard, which branches off from it, takes you into the heart of the district. There’s a visitor center, and you can wander the empty streets past the lonely houses that starred alongside Sean Connery in the movie of the same name. The walk along the piers and the salt water marsh to the Marina District (2,5 km / 1.5 mi from the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge to the Palace of Fine Arts) is at least as rewarding photographically. The further east you walk here, the better the panoramic view, back to the full width of the Golden Gate and the bridge. Towards evening, you can put both in front of the orange sunset.

The Palace of Fine Arts marks the eastern end of the Presidio and is worth a quick stop. The neoclassical structure, a rotunda and several porticoes deliberately left unfinished, was built specifically for the 1915 World’s Fair and serves no purpose other than its own. There is a small lake on the east side, which is a good place to focus on the domed structure in the fine morning light. Towards evening, the rotunda is illuminated.

Now, to get back to busier areas, board a Line 30 bus (eastbound) on Broderick Street, just a block away, which will take you to Van Ness Avenue. There, transfer to Line 47 (southbound). As soon as the announcement of the Jackson or Washington Street stops occurs, you will be sufficiently near the Pacific Heights District to disembark. In a wide circle around Lafayette Park, you’ll find the most beautiful Victorian homes that San Francisco is so famous for. This area is also on a hill, so it offers excellent views of the city. Most of the houses are privately owned, and only the Haas-Lilienthal House (2007 Franklin Street) and the Octagon House (2645 Gough Street) can be visited. Photographically, these architectural scenes are not without their problems because of the many above-ground wires. Therefore, it often makes more sense to crop out details, such as the colorful ornaments, the domes, or the playful turrets, with a light telephoto focal length. Views along an entire row of facades with a focus on the protruding balconies are also appealing. Light-wise, this part of town is not very sensitive, so you can slip it in at any time of day without worry.

That was a good taste then, but still not the best San Francisco has to offer in this direction. – Postcard Row at Alamo Square combines the old wooden architecture with the modern skyscrapers much more skillfully. To continue the tour there most expediently, plan your walk of Pacific Heights to come back out on Van Ness Avenue and continue south on a Line 47 bus. From Market Street, the 21 Line will then take you west to the corner of Hayes and Steiner streets at Alamo Square Park. The sun doesn’t illuminate the six nearly identical Victorian houses of Postcard Row on the east side of the park until late afternoon, when they compete in balanced illumination with the skyline in the background. As darkness descends, numerous illuminated windows create an even more charming scene. The southwest corner of Alamo Square Park is a very good shooting location to capture this view.

Next Motifs in San Francisco – Third Round: Golden Gate Park, Haight-Asbury, The Mission, Twin Peaks

Next Fourth Round: Alcatraz and Angel Island, Skylines

Previous Intermediate: The Golden Gate Bridge

Previous Motifs in San Francisco – First Round: Union Square, Chinatown, Cable Car Barn, Lombard Street, Fisherman’s Wharf, Telegraph Hill

Previous Photo Tips USA – San Francisco (with maps)

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